Images by Paolo Simi
Pitti Immagine Uomo is a world apart from the rest of Florence, locked up inside the 16th-century fortress Fortezza da Basso. There are neither drawbridges nor guards, but that’s not to say it’s easy to get in. Access to the citadel is restricted. Yet the moment you cross the threshold, you become part of a world of sartorial elegance, where the common language of style connects over 32,000 international visitors and 1,000 brands. Of course style can be spoken in different ways, and at Pitti Immagine it is divided into Uomo, Urban, Informal and New Beats.
The resulting atmosphere resembles something of a Moroccan bazaar full of color, chaos and coffee, instead of mint tea. Booths make up a more than 59,000-square-meter tangled maze of local artisans, heritage houses and the world’s largest luxury brands. And if you don’t actually sell clothes, you sell yourself, your image, your look, your brand. This is done through various measures and equations of quality, detail, craftsmanship, technology and eco-friendly materials. While this season the focus tended toward pastels, neutral colors, prints, light yet resistant fabrics and a slightly vintage look, Pitti Uomo comprises the widest variety of garments, to satisfy every man’s taste and needs.
“We have to be contemporary and modern; we have to look at young people, talk with them, be inspired by them,” reveals Brunello Cucinelli, whose eponymous label is renowned worldwide for its impeccable slim-fit suits and cashmere knits. When explaining the success of his company, the designer underlines the importance of quality without compromise. Sebastian Dollinger, designer of his family’s label Eton of Sweden follows the same creed to different results. He insists that his vibrant, sardonic, form-fitting shirts suit all types of men. His inspiration comes from textiles, all of Italian or French origin, and his creations perfectly mirror his eclectic personality. Landing somewhere between Bruno and Sebastian, Manuele Bianchi and Edmundo Castillo from Casbia combine comfort and practicality, and add a bit of a twist. The pair began designing men shoes after failing to find a pair that either desired. The resulting footwear is neither extravagant nor excessive, but timeless. The colors are classic, like light blue to gray, incorporating a variety of materials.
See, Pitti Immagine isn’t just a fair; it is also the ideal test ground for new brands, as buyers from all over the world come to Florence in search of the latest trends and arrivals, which is the express purpose of Who’s On Next? A competition for uncovering talents in menswear, the showcase is the brainchild of Altaroma and L’Uomo Vogue. This year, the joint winners were young Italian designers Andrea Pompilio and Emiliano Rinaldi. It comes at no surprise that their strength lies in well-researched materials and premier manufacturing practices.
Concurrently with Pitti Uomo 80, Florence hosted Pitti W. Dedicated to …
Click “Read More” for additional images and text.
…special projects in womenswear, the fair presented exclusive previews and capsule collections for the Spring 2012 season from 88 international brands, plus a dedicated area reserved to emerging talents from Brazil, this year’s highlighted guest nation. Limited editions and debut lines, such as Sedici45—a handbag line designed by Francesca Versace—emphasize the vivacity of the fashion panorama.
Throughout the week, a series of award ceremonies, cocktail receptions, concerts, and in-store events complemented the fairs. Moreover, each year an international guest designer provides a preview of the upcoming womenswear shows. This edition, it was all about the USA. American designer Scott Stenberg presented his Spring 2012 Band of Outsiders collections with a show/performance hosted in the ex-Manifattura Tabacchi, a former cigar factory. There was also a special appearance by Laura and Kate Mulleavy, the sisters behind Rodarte, who showed a capsule of ten gorgeous gowns detailed with Swarovski crystals, tulle and feathers. Displayed in a site-specific labyrinthine illuminated by neon tubes, the combination of showmanship and craftsmanship left the crowd speechless.
Demonstrating the thin line that divides men and women’s fashion, Olivier Saillard, director of Musée Galliera in Paris debuted the Dress Like A Man project. A live show, it featured four custom mannequins dressed in reconstructed men’s staples created by various Italian and international houses. Black lace-up shoes were transformed into a hat and socks into a slim waistcoat. Trousers and neckties were reborn as skirts while shirts functioned as purses. The message was clear and underscored the week’s overarching theme: Style isn’t about trends, nor is it about sticking to the classics. It’s about taking it all in before making it yours.
